Imagine my surprise when the dry cleaner asked me if I wanted to have my raincoat “impregnated” (in German “imprĂ€gniert”). Just one possible pitfall when navigating life in German … đ
Waldbeer Stanitzl @ Café Landtmann
21 JulA few days ago I had to run the kind of errands (taking things to my tax adviser and so on) that make one feel in need of a treat. Since Café Landtmann on the Ring, one of the oldest and most traditional Viennese coffeehouses, lies on the route home from my tax adviser, I decided to stop there for my treat. Good choice! (See photo.)
It didn’t only look good. It was delicious!!! đ
Things growing in Vienna
30 JunIn addition to the wonderful things planted and maintained by the MA 42 (Magistratsabteilung 42 – The municipal parks and gardens services), which does such a good job they deserve a post devoted entirely to their work, there are a number of other things growing in Vienna. This spring I became aware of some communal gardens near the university campus, where dedicated amateur gardeners are growing vegetables and some flowers. It’s a wonderful idea and terrific use of land that was otherwise just being wasted. Here is a photo to show what great results they have already gotten, where the growing season has really just started.
Not far from there on a traffic circle, beautifully planted in yellow and purple by the park and gardens services, is a sunflower that was planted by an anonymous beautifier:
How do I know that it didn’t plant itself? Because it has a sign:
The sign says: Please water me. THANK YOU! Your Alsergrund “GrĂ€tzl*”-Sunflower.
* The word “GrĂ€tzl” also deserves its own post, it has so many associations. Short version: It is Viennese dialect and refers to one’s neighborhood.
My first year in Vienna
10 JunRecently I came across my collection of opera tickets from my first year in Vienna. I couldn’t resist creating an annotated inventory of my experiences. The results of my labors: Operas I went to my first year in Vienna
Sunday morning in Vienna
27 MayI must confess that Sunday morning is my favorite time in Vienna, especially when the weather is the way it is today–bright, cool, and clear. The streets and parks are empty (except for the dogs and their people) and usually clear of trash thanks to the untiring efforts of the city workers , the air is fresh (no traffic), and it is blissfully quiet except, this morning, for ecstatic birdsong. There is an exquisite sense of having enough time, peace, well-being, and surrounding beauty to work out life’s knottier problems–with fresh rolls to take home for breakfast as your reward.
The Linden Trees (or “lime trees” if you’re British)
24 MayHard for me to imagine that almost a year has gone by since I started this blog. What reminded me was that the linden trees are in blossom again, smelling as sweet as ever, especially in our suddenly muggy weather. No wonder poems were written and songs composed about them!
Dogs in Vienna (4)
22 AprWe are in the middle of a “police action” against dogs and dog owners. That is, for two weeks the police in Vienna will be on the lookout for infractions of various dog-related laws, like the leash law and (one hopes) the pooper scooper law. This made headlines in the local newspapers. As one friend of mine said, “I find it very fair that they give us notice.”
I think this a really good (and, basically, very Viennese) way of approaching the topic. Let’s face it–the police have enough to do without prosecuting every person with a gentle, well-behaved dog for not having the animal on a leash. By putting a time limit on the “action” and in that time period being very strict, the police remind dogowners what their actual responsibilities are. Everybody is made to think twice. And then the police can, in good conscience, go back to chasing bank robbers, purse snatchers and dogowners who are endangering others with out-of-control pets.
It gets the message across without making the lives of the police officers, many of whom seem sympathetic to dogs and owners wanting some freedom from the leash,  harder.
Dog (3) – Scooping the poop
26 FebVienna, like many big cities, has pooper scooper laws and–much as anyone who has moved or visited here recently is likely to doubt it–they have made a big difference. There is still a lot of poop on the ground, but there used to be more.
As with many things the Vienna municipal government has tried to motivate citizens to comply with the laws (a) by using humor and (b) by making it as easy as possible. In numbers: over 1,000 stands with plastic bags for the poop, which can be deposited in any of the 20,000 regular public trash bins, and 30,000 (humorous) signs to remind dog owners to scoop. (http://www.wien.gv.at/rk/msg/2007/0920/016.html)
The sign itself I find a masterpiece. (In fact is has even attracted attention in Berlin: http://www.fensterzumhof.eu/4869/berlin-wien-hundehaufen-aktion/) The perky dog has a sign in his mouth that says: Sind dir EUR 36 wurst? A very clever play on words, reminding the dog owners of the possible financial consequences of failing to scoop. “Wurst” means sausage in high German, as in the kind you eat (think “Bratwurst”). In Viennese dialogue it has two meanings. If you say, “Das ist mir wurst” it means “I don’t care” (word-for-word translation: it’s sausage to me). At the same time, I’m sorry to say, “Wurst” is also used to describe precisely what dog owners should be scooping. So the little dog is asking, “Do you really not care about EUR 36?” and referring to the poop in the same sentence.
The overriding slogan for the campaign also relies on Viennese dialect, as if to say, we are all in this together: Nimm’ ein Sackerl fĂŒr mein Gackerl. This means “take a bag for my poop” but, sadly doesn’t rhyme–and isn’t very memorable or motivating–in English. The “erl” at the end of both “Sackerl” and “Gackerl” in Viennese dialect serves the function of the diminutive “chen” in high German, so we’re talking about a little bag (“Sackerl”) for a little pile of poop (“Gackerl”–a very Viennese expression).
This phrase has even inspired a song, such as it is, which can be viewed on YouTube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdDPaAR66aQ). The verses are about the dispensers being empty and the trash bins being full so that Frau Huber has to bring her own bag and then has nowhere to dispose of it. This has not been my experience so far. Perhaps the song is a few years old?
One thing is probably no accident–that it is *Frau* Huber. My, granted not all together scientific, observations have suggested to me that it is middle-aged women who are most assiduous in cleaning up after their dogs. And I, at 50, have joined their ranks!
Dog (2) – Even strong men
23 FebWhat strikes me when I am out walking with Mylo is that even tall, strong men in power suits smile at him. Is it my dog? He is certainly worth smiling at. Or is it Vienna? I’m not sure.


