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St. Patrick’s Day in Vienna

17 Mar

This scene was accompanied by music from a brass band in best Austrian tradition, but I was drawn by the sound of the pipes that preceded it.



10 Feb

“Heringschmaus” (one contributor to the online dictionary at suggested “herring delight” as a translation) is a traditional feast on Ash Wednesday. Now, if that sounds contradictory to you, then you are not alone. I come from the Protestant tradition, where there was certainly no feasting on Ash Wednesday. It was a day of great solemnity and deprivation, even though when I was a child we didn’t celebrate anything like Carnival so had nothing to recover from or make up for.

In the Austrian context–one of moderation in all things, even moderation–Heringschmaus makes sense, though. It goes along with the dearly held belief, in the meantime supported in some ways by medical studies, that eating “sour” things like pickles helps alleviate the symptoms of a (Mardi Gras) hangover. (The herring in this case is pickled and is eaten with pickled vegetables like beets and cabbage.) It also complies with the Catholic idea that eating fish is somehow penance (no meat).

What to do this year when Ash Wednesday coincides with Valentine’s Day? The Kurier is suggesting Heringschmaus by candlelight. Just thought I’d pass that tip along. 😉

NYTimes: Gowns, Wurst and Protesters: It’s Ball Season in Vienna

9 Feb

We made the New York Times! (Doesn’t happen all that often.)

Gowns, Wurst and Protesters: It’s Ball Season in Vienna

January weather

28 Jan

My first January in Vienna (1989), we only had 26 hours of sunshine the whole month. People were gray-faced and weary and the suicide rate rose significantly. This year is giving 1989 a good run for its money. The sun is shining (sort of) as I write this, but it doesn’t look as if it’s going to stay out, and, indeed, it has already disappeared for a lengthy period once this morning. It may not be all that cold–it’s about 4°C or approximately 40°F–but this weather is not for sissies. I’d almost prefer the 5°F (~ -9°C) with the deep and shining blue skies of my New England childhood.

Ah, well, at least it’s not -9°C with gray skies! 😉


17 Jan

Have I mentioned that it snowed in Vienna recently? This beautifully crafted and creative snow figure (below) was seen on a bench in the Votiv Park a day or two ago.

18 signs that you’ve become Viennese – Reblogged from vienna würstelstand

9 Jan

If you enjoy my occasional comments on life in Vienna, I think you will really appreciate this more regular blog with several people’s perspectives, starting with “18 Signs that You’ve Become Viennese”:

Three Kings 2017 (reblogged)

6 Jan

Just because it’s so much warmer this year 5°C (41°F).