Steinhofgründe

1 Feb

My translation of the plaque at Steinhof: At the beginning of December 1981, a Vienna-wide referendum initiated by the non-partisan citizen group Steinhofgründe rejected the construction that had already been approved for this site.

In accordance with the will of the people, the Steinhof area, in its untouched state, was opened to the public as a recreational space on December 23rd, 1981.

(Nice Christmas present! ;-))

How is it that I have now lived over 36 years in Vienna and only last Sunday discovered this part of Steinhof? I have an excuse for 11 of those years as dogs are not allowed in the area. This does however leave 25 years for which I cannot account. And how did I come to discover it now?

An answer to the first question first. All that time, whenever I heard the name Steinhof I thought of the hospital complex designed by Otto Wagner and Carlo von Boog and devoted largely to the treatment of the (wealthy!) mentally ill. (In Viennese, the area was also referred to as Baumgartner Höhe and had become a kind of shorthand for the psychiatric clinic, much the way “McLean’s” is used in Boston.) I had even taken a tour of the hospital complex once. I’m sorry to say that the only thing that sticks in my mind, other than the beauty of the Jugendstil buildings, is that the church, designed by Otto Wagner, was lined with tiles to quite a height. Taller than me, as I remember, and the reason given was that patients were more or less required to attend services but could not always control their bodily functions. The tiles made it possible to hose down the building after the services.

How did I come to discover it last Sunday? I wanted to go to Wilhelminenberg in the 16th district for a walk and on the bus up from the Ottakring S-Bahn station decided to get off at the Feuerwache am Steinhof stop, rather than the Savoyenstraße one, and then walk towards Dehnepark in the 14th. I was planning to walk around the outside of the grounds, as I had often done with Maylo, and enjoy the beautiful houses out that way. When I got off the bus, though, with an astonishing number of people, I realized I didn’t have to walk around the outside. I could go in. And I’m very glad I did. It is one more beautiful place to walk more or less in the Vienna Woods and will, I think, make a really nice place for picnics when the weather is warmer.

By the way, this being Vienna, I actually ran into someone I know on my walk. (“Wien ist ein Dorf” we often say. Vienna is a village.)

Here are a few more photos.

Walking time from Feuerwache am Steinhof to Hütteldorferstraße this time around (I got a little lost) was probably about an hour and a half. Below you can see the map.

2 Responses to “Steinhofgründe”

  1. Erika Esau's avatar
    Erika Esau February 1, 2025 at 7:11 pm #

    Oh, you have made me so nostalgic–how I wish we could be in Wien again! We have wonderful memories of Steinhof and the beautiful Wagner buildings. We attended a wonderful Christmas concert in the Church, which was so cold that they passed out blankets for the audience. Only in Vienna! You were quite caring & diplomatic to avoid mentioning the fate of the Steinhof hospital complex during the Nazi era, and its current poignant memorial to those who died there. Thank you for the lovely photos of a place we miss.

    • ecbinvienna's avatar
      ecbinvienna February 2, 2025 at 1:45 pm #

      The concert must have been a wonderful experience, and I can easily imagine the need for blankets! The part of history you mentioned is at least in the Wikipedia entry I linked.

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